Brunch in New York

Rating:

The Brooklyn location of Bubby’s is situated on an enviable – and no doubt wildly expensive – piece of real estate: An enormous, two level space overlooks Brooklyn Bridge Park and offers the neighborhood namesake view of the Manhattan and Brooklyn bridges.  During the warmer months, pedestrians from outer boroughs like Manhattan trickle in; but during the winter, most of the brunch diners have traveled on foot (or in strollers) from a multi-million dollar condominium to the fringes of a neighborhood that relies on shadows thrown from pre-war construction and the errant abandoned loft to fancy itself an ‘artist’s’ community.

The user-unfriendliness of Bubby’s brunch begins with its limited hours (at press time, brunch service ends promptly at 2 p.m., the same time that brunch across the river or in any other Brooklyn neighborhood is ordering its second round of Mimosas), and continues with its cash-only policy. Reservations are not accepted for parties of less than six. And the prices are not much friendlier.  Everything on the menu is a la carte, and entrees average $16 dollars.  Mimosas and Bellinis are $10 a piece, and Bubby’s Famous Spicy Bloody Mary – which is very spicy, and quite good, is $11.  A rotating specials menu offers seasonal cocktails (try the strong and sweet “Winter Manhattan”, for a reasonable $10) and vaguely inventive variations on breakfast staples.  There is nothing particularly special about the “Brunch Specialties”, but nothing offensive, either – with the exception of House Smoked Rainbow Trout Scramble, served with horseradish cream ($19), which is both. We recommend the classic Bubby’s Breakfast – two eggs, homemade breakfast sausage or smokehouse bacon, toast, and a choice of home fries or grits ($16) or the Applewood House Smoked Salmon platter, served with a bagel and cream cheese, for an overpriced $20.  For the sweet tooth, the Sour Cream pancakes ($13) are delicious, if a bit heavy.

Bubby’s is the kind of place where condiments – including an unsealed maple syrup dispenser – remain on every table during the entirety of brunch service, untouched by restaurant staff but readily handled by the under twelve, pre-‘germ awareness’ set (who represent a solid third of the dining room’s population on any given Sunday).  Mind-bogglingly, there is no separate kids menu, although there is a children’s ‘play area’ set aside. But the generous offering of hot and cold cereals and a selection of side dishes – like a short stack of pancakes ($7.50) or two free-range eggs ($6)  – easily double as a mini-meal.  If you’re already in the neighborhood, you could do worse, but we do not suggest going out of your way, as special events and pies – not brunch service  – are the focus of Bubby’s Brooklyn.

Brunch at Bubby’s Dumbo

1 Main Street, Brooklyn
NY 11201

718-222-0666