Rating: 
Entzückend. That German word for charming is entirely apropos to Wallsé, the Michelin-starred Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner’s homage to his Austrian hometown on the Danube. Situated in lively yet relaxed environs in the far West Village, the restaurant, physically, is characterized by tasteful, unusual appointments including genuine Adolph Loos Viennese café chairs and Julian Schnabel’s impactful portrait of Chef Gutenbrunner. The storefront’s generously-sized-windows mean that at brunch time – Saturdays and Sundays between 11a.m. and 2:15p.m. — copious natural light enlivens the interior.
Wallsé’s specialty cocktails, ($14) imaginative and refreshing, stimulate your appetite for the brunch offerings ahead. The Cucumber Delight, for example, is composed of pear-infused vodka, muddled cucumbers, elderflower syrup, lemon and champagne. The Pepper Tomato, made with pepper-infused vodka, tomato water, celery salt and a cherry tomato, is legendary among New York’s brunch cognoscenti.
If, for your victuals, you elect for something as simple and slimming as two soft-boiled eggs in a glass, ($8) you can be certain the eggs will be prepared to perfection. Yet it would be a shame to forego the gustatory pleasures of the heartier courses, among them braised rabbit with tarragon and wild mushrooms as well as Spätzle — Austrian cheese dumplings, traditionally on the heavy side, here refined to a scrumptious lightness ($14).
The acoustics, alas, are on the aggressive side. When Wallsé is full, and it often is, the noise level, energizing to those who do not object to it, disqualifies the restaurant as a destination for a quiet romantic brunch.
Nonetheless, the Einspänner, a double espresso topped with whipped cream, ($5) is heavenly, and a singularly suitable accompaniment to the Salzburger Nockerl, ($12) a delectable confection shaped as three mountain peaks under a “flurry” of powdered sugar. Service is courteous – and that extends to a management and wait staff happy to let guests enjoy their brunch at a leisurely pace.
Brunch at Wallse – $35/$60
Saturdays and Sundays between 11a.m. and 2:15p.m
344 West 11th Street @ Washington
New York, NY 10014
212-352-2300
