Brunch in New York

Rating:

There is nothing particularly memorable about the Americanized French cuisine served at Jacques Brasserie on the Upper East Side. Still, the food is a notch tastier and more visually appealing than the laissez-faire atmosphere indicates. The former is no doubt due to heaping quantities of butter discharged with wild abandon into every dish.

The $19.95 ‘Champagne Brunch’ includes (or, rather, is advertised as including,) any egg dish, a fruit salad, a basket of baked goods, and a Kir Royale, Bloody Mary, or Mimosa.  During a recent visit, the fruit salad never appeared and we were charged for the assortment of pastries. But considering that many New York City brunches charge $15 for a cocktail alone, it’s a relatively good deal even when incomplete.  

Among the egg dishes, we recommend the Omelette Aux Champignons, which includes grilled mushrooms and swiss cheese; or Les Oeufs Marocaines – lamb sausage, “broken” eggs, and a slightly spicy tomato sauce (each $12 a la carte).  All egg dishes are served with pommes frites, a welcome European alternative to home fries.

It is worth considering ordering outside of the Champagne Brunch, as some of the better dishes are not egg dishes.  For a more authentically French meal, try the Steak Frites with sauce béarnaise or au poivre ($29) or six different varieties of buttery Moules Frites (each $18): The best options are the ‘Pastis’ – Ricard Pastis and fennel – or ‘Dijonnaise’, with mustard, shallots and plenty of garlic.  The lentil salad in mustard sauce is a tasty side dish alongside a disappointingly prepared and surprisingly dry pan seared salmon dish ($24).  Jacques Burger is a greasy delight, topped with onion and blue cheese on a brioche bun, which easily falls apart ($13).  If you’re interested in an hors d’oeuvre, the Tart a L’oignon  ($10) might be the tastiest dish on the menu. The bar is an inviting place to retire after brunch for some wine (from a well-appointed selection) or cocktails, especially if there is a European athletic match playing on the television.

We feel compelled to mention that during repeated visits over the course of several months, there has never been hot water in the restrooms, which raises suspicions about the water temperature in the kitchen, and by extension, the cleanliness of the dishes and cutlery. For this we must reduce the rating by half a star, and hope that Jacques Brasserie fixes the problem before their next inspection.

Brunch at Jacques Brasserie

204 East 85 St.  (@ 3^rd Ave)
New York, NY 10028

212-327-2272