Rating: 
9 Restaurant, one of the sleeker, younger establishments in overcrowded Hell’s Kitchen, recently launched weekend brunch service. Aesthetically, the transition has been a bit clumsy so far. The design of the dining room – with a neon backlit, fully stocked bar as the visual center – and appointment of a buttoned-up greeter who more resembles a friendly doorman than a host give the vague impression of a lonely after hours nightclub (especially if you arrive early).
Indeed, libations are the draw: $20 buys you unlimited champagne cocktails; and two-for-one drink specials are offered on Mimosas, Bloody Marys, selected wines and domestic beer. Although the food menu is disappointingly a la carte, none of the dishes disappoint.
Executive Chef Eric Hara (formerly of the Oak Room) has devised an inventive but mostly accessible brunch menu that favors savory over sweet and lunch over breakfast. Heavily embellished tuna tartare ($12) is a good choice for a shared starter, with apples, pine nuts, and shishito pepper. The duck and foie gras meatloaf dumplings ($7) are also recommended, perhaps for the whole table to sample. A tomato & egg sandwich almost justifies its $13 price tag by swapping out traditional sliced cheese for a milky (and messy) burrata, topped with shallot jam. The baked eggs with short-rib mushroom hash ($14) is flavorful and well proportioned, as is the delicious macaroni and cheese ($12), although it would benefit from a side of greens, and we do not suggest adding crab ($5).
The chicken-fried skate ($17) with stone ground grits and eggs is a bit of a stretch, and not for every palate. But both entrée salads hit the mark: The spinach salad with pancetta, potatoes and balsamic is topped with a poached egg; and the Oriental shrimp salad ($14) is beautifully arranged – we recommend ordering it to share, so that you can sample more of the small plates. The most regretful omission on the menu is the absence of any side dishes – a plate of greens or potatoes would nicely compliment most of the entrees. But the service is friendly and more than efficient – we will definitely visit 9 Restaurant the next time we are in the neighborhood.
Brunch at 9 Restaurant
800 9th Avenue
New York, NY 10019
212-956-3333
